Cheltenham
Cheltenham is the Cotswolds with a genuine cultural calendar: a Regency spa town of festivals, theatre and racing.
Cheltenham grew from a small market town into one of England’s most fashionable spa resorts almost by accident, after mineral springs were discovered here in 1716, and it has kept a distinctly sociable, cultured character ever since. Where many Cotswolds towns are defined by a single high street or church, Cheltenham is defined by what happens in it: a packed festival calendar, a proper working theatre, a racecourse known the world over, and public parks and leisure facilities that have quietly served the town for the best part of a century. This guide covers the Regency town itself, the cultural life that sets it apart from anywhere else in the Cotswolds, and how to plan a visit.
Cheltenham at a Glance
| Location | Western edge of the Cotswolds, Gloucestershire, at the foot of Leckhampton Hill and the Cotswold escarpment |
| Known as | Britain’s most complete Regency town |
| Distance from Oxford | Around 45 miles; roughly an hour by car |
| Distance from London | Around 100 miles; around 2 hours by direct train from London Paddington |
| Nearest railway station | Cheltenham Spa, about a mile from the town centre, with direct services to London Paddington, Oxford, Bristol and Birmingham |
| By road | Just off the M5, with the A40 and A46 connecting into the wider Cotswolds |
| Best known for | Its Regency architecture, its year-round festivals of literature, jazz, music and science, the Cheltenham Festival horse racing, and public facilities including Sandford Parks Lido and Montpellier Gardens |
Exploring Cheltenham’s Regency Streets
Cheltenham’s spa fortunes began in 1716, when mineral springs were discovered on what is now the site of Cheltenham Ladies’ College, and were developed commercially from 1738 by Captain Henry Skillicorne, generally regarded as the founder of Cheltenham as a watering place. The town’s reputation was made in 1788, when George III visited with Queen Charlotte and the royal princesses, and royal patronage turned Cheltenham into one of the most fashionable health resorts in England almost overnight — a well from that era survives today as the “Royal Well.” The building boom that followed has left Cheltenham with an unusually large and complete stock of Regency architecture for a town of its size.
The Promenade, known locally as “the Prom,” is the obvious place to start: a tree-lined boulevard of Regency buildings, independent boutiques and cafés running from the High Street toward Montpellier. Montpellier itself, developed from the 1830s alongside the spa, is Cheltenham’s most stylish district, its Grade I and II* listed buildings — including the well-known fluted columns and caryatids — now home to independent shops, restaurants and bars rather than the original spa clientele.
Where to Eat and Drink in Cheltenham
Cheltenham’s dining scene is genuinely serious for a town of its size, a legacy in part of its long tradition of entertaining visiting spa society.
- Le Champignon Sauvage, run by David and Helen Everitt-Matthias since 1987, has held a Michelin star for the greater part of its life and remains one of the most enduring fine-dining destinations in the Cotswolds.
- Prithvi, on Bath Road, holds three AA Rosettes and won Best Restaurant in the South West at the British Curry Awards, built around a refined, French-influenced take on Indian cooking.
- Purslane, a Michelin-recognised seafood restaurant, is one of the town’s best options for fish and shellfish cookery.
Beyond the town’s fine-dining names, Cheltenham’s more casual scene is just as worth seeking out.
- 131, the boutique hotel on the Promenade, houses The Terrace, a seasonal contemporary restaurant opening onto a garden terrace, alongside a cocktail bar and a gin bar with more than 400 gins — you don’t need to be staying to eat or drink there.
- Petit Coco Bistro, tucked into a cellar on Bath Street, is an intimate French bistro of red walls, candlelit tables and classic dishes such as cheese soufflé and steak-frites.
- The Tivoli, a country-style, food-led pub on Andover Road run by the team behind The Bell at Langford, serves seasonal, locally sourced cooking across a bar, restaurant and courtyard, with Cheltenham’s own Deya Brewery beers and ales on tap.
- The Five Alls, a restored community pub on Bath Road, is known for globally inspired small plates, weekend brunch and a well-regarded Sunday roast.
- The Railway, a candlelit neighbourhood pub on New Street, is home to Smokey Phi Phi’s wood-fired Thai street food; a genuinely unexpected and well-loved pairing of British pub and Thai barbecue.
- Otis & Belle, an artisan sourdough bakery with a Regency storefront in Montpellier, bakes from a 32-year-old starter that has picked up four Great Taste Awards for its croissants and sourdough.
- Baker & Graze, an award-winning bakery and café in the Suffolks, is a favourite for breakfast and brunch, and was a British winner at the 2024 La Liste Pastry Awards, and another local like all of the above for the LCR team.
For a wider view of dining across the region, the best restaurants in the Cotswolds sets Cheltenham’s options in context.
